Friday, April 18, 2014

Bukit Lawang, Sumatra : Ray of Hope for Sumatran Orangutans




Bukit Lawang is a small village situated 90 kilometers northwest of Medan, the capital city of North Sumatra, Indonesia.Bukit Lawang is most famous for being a site to easily spot semi-wild orangutans near convenient tourism facilities. Bukit Lawang is situated at the eastern side of Gunung Leuser National Park.


Since it was founded in 1973, the Bukit Lawang Orangutan Rehabilitation center is dedicated to the rehabilitation of captive primates as well as those wounded or displaced due to land clearance. The rehabilitation center also helps orangutans to re adapt to life in the wild. Located close to the Bukit Lawang rural area at the eastern bank of Bahorok River, the rehabilitation center blends in with the most important conservation area in Southeast Asia, the Mount Leuser National Park.

Should you make a stopover at Bukit Lawang, you must not miss the escorted night tours that have become a popular feature of the park. Treading through dense tropical forest under challenging terrain, a professional guide will accompany you on excursion. Visitors would normally stay two days in order to make sure that they get to observe the orangutans up close. Be well prepared and bring along your mosquito repellent, non slip shoes, long sleeved shirt and trousers, raincoat and waterproof bag.

Elevated at 3,404 meters above sea level, Mount Leuser beckons  the adventurous hiker from afar. Angasan Village can be the point of departure for the mountain climb that should take10 - 14 days. For the first five days, you will traverse through pristine forest teeming with an amazing variety of flora and fauna. You must maintain a fit and healthy body to follow through the hike.

In November 2003, Bukit Lawang was almost entirely wiped out by a massive flood. The rehabilitation center was reconstructed and later launched a conversation education program to raise awareness among visitors and public at large. Environmental friendly facilities for visitors are available through an integrated plan.

Accessibility and Direction 

The route to Bukit Lawang takes 3 - 4 hours by land from Medan, capital city of North Sumatra.
Take a taxi from the airport or hotel in Medan to Pinang Baris. (no more than 50,000 IDR per car); Do not get off at the big terminal, rather the driver to continue .. just a bit past there is a bakery called Mawar, (this is good advice, mawar bakery only 1km further up, left as you walk out of the bus terminal) . (Touts are waiting for tourists at the terminal, go outside, to the main street where the minibuses and public buses are) From there you can get a direct minibus to Bukit Lawang(max 20,000 pp, bargain to 15,000 each if you are more than 3 people, February 2013) or the big coach (max 15,big coach is government run but minivans are 'private'. The coach will stop many times along the way and in Binjai (about 40 minutes from Medan) they may stop for half an hour to fill up.

The last stop of the public bus, where you get off, is normally the bus terminal in Gotong Royong, a village just 5 minutes from Bukit Lawang. From here you can get a becak (motorbike/sidecar/tuktuk type thing) for 10,000 IDR. This should drop you at the national park office in Bukit Lawang and you can then find your guest house.

There are many drivers offering minivans from the Belawan ferry terminal direct to Bukit Lawang, bargain hard. Expect to be shifted minivan at least once (in Medan). Prices vary between Rp. 60,000 and 70,000 all the way to Bukit Lawang. The extra cost should outweigh the hassle of getting into Medan, finding the bus station, then finding a hostel in Bukit Lawang (especially if you arrive during a torrential downpour). The driver will usually recommend a family or friend's hostel.

You can go by tourist bus (minivan 5-7 persons;) from Parapat (Lake Toba) or Berastagi to Bukit Lawang. Tickets can be bought at local tour agencies; but sometimes they run the vehicle as speed driver; to reach the arrival place; just check it out on their sites.

Sightseeing 
  • Bukit Lawang is most famous for the Orangutan Viewing Platform ( Feedings are daily at 08:00 and 15:00 and costs Rp 20,000 [Camera] Rp 50,000, Videocamera [Rp 150,000] )
  • Jungle trekking is the primary activity in Bukit Lawang as it is the gateway tot he nearby Gunung Leuser National Park ( Most tourists hire a guide as the jungle is easy to get list on and requires a permit from Gunung Leuser National Park ranger office. There are plenty of good and reliable guides around so take your time to get to know some of them, have a chat, make your choice and prepare for a great adventure )
  • Another popular past time activity is tubing ( When tubing one uses an innertube to float down the river. Tubes can be rented at various stalls along the village and expect pay around Rp 10,000 per tube. Be careful on the water because currents are strong )
  • You can also visit the bat cave Rp 5,000 ( make sure to take a flash light )
  • Vsit the Friday market and etc.
Eat, Drinks and Sleep
  • Yusri Cafe situated across from the National Park Ticket Office. A very homely feeling cafe with Yusuf and Rita (with Rita & her mum doing all the cooking) taking care of you. Serving tasty local food at local prices with decent portion sizes. Good western selection of food for breakfast. Nasi Goreng Rp 8,000, Nasi Ayam Rp 10,000, Black Tea/Coffee Rp 2,000 with milk Rp 5,000, Banana toast Rp 7,000, Banana Pancake Rp 8,000
  •  Tony's Restaurant serves excellent home made pizza for those craving a touch of the west. The best spaghetti this side of Roma and a great tasting Gado Gado for those seeking some of the local fare. 
  • Jungle Tribe a cocktail bar and restaurant owned by Erika-Canadian woman and her husband Agun. Situated next door to Sam's restaurant across the road from Sam's Bungalows - 3 very pleasant rooms with great views of the river.
  • Sam's Bungalows Right next door to Jungle Tribe cocktail bar, this restaurant has the best in panoramic views of the river. Sam's cook uses an array of herbs and spices that give her cooking an extra dimension. Try the Gado Gado special. All the curries are rich in flavor, filled with nutritious and natural food.  
  • Green Hill has great views of the jungle and there food is great. The restaurant is a lovely open plan space and a good menu and is brilliant for vegetarians e.g. banana and chocolate pancakes, tempe rendang, veggie curry.
  • Indra Valley Inn and Resto have a wonderful riverside location with jungle views. The restaurant & bar offer offer a variety of delicious fresh meals and snacks with a good variety of vegetarian options.  
  • Rosa Restaurant, Jl. Orangutan. is newly opened and has traditional/local Indonesian food or Western options for very affordable prices! Rosa is so friendly. Enjoy cheap and delicious eating in Bukit Lawang while sitting near to the river and close to all the souvenir shops
  • Sam's - 3 lovely rooms with prices from 100,000-200,000, Contact name and no. Samsul +6281370093597
  • Jungle Tribe A free standing house at 250,000/night with 'a bar and restaurant' next door. Contact name and no. Agun +6281361746375
  • Garden Inn, (100m south of Jungle Inn), Pardil +6281396000571. Another pleasant place to stay in Bukit Lawang. Nice double bed rooms, cold shower and mandi 100k+ INR.
  • Rain Forest. New accommodation built by Nora's family - 5 rooms and restaurant. Rooms from Rp 40,000/night. Some wikitravelers have reported an aggressive sales style from Nora and her trekking guides. There is apparently a guide using Nora's email address for his own services too, promising room bookings that Nora is not aware of. When booking perhaps call to confirm she knows you are coming. 40k+ IDR
  • Bukit Lawang Cottages also known as 'Eco Lodge' (just across the river from main village at the base of the hill and where the walking tracks start) is a good option with prices starting from Rp 80,000/night particularly good, if you arrive late in the day. It's also one of the main places to eat/drink at night and meet in the morning for treks. 
  • Wisma Bukit Lawang Indah is across the river next door to Yusman which is next door to Wisma Sibayak. Cheap rooms with a double and single bed go for Rp. 35,000. Bukit Lawang Indah has excellent cheap food 
  • Nora's Homestay, approximately two kilometres by road from the river. A great kampung-style experience from Rp 25,000 upwards per night including self-contained shower and toilet. 
  • Plan's Stone, Lovely bungalows next to the river, across the bridge from town. En-suite toilet and shower (cold water). Local family owned and run. Great service, friendly, welcoming, and authentic. 50,000 IDR with delicious Nasi Goreng breakfast and tea throughout the day
  • Eriono Guesthouse, restaurant & art shop Charming lodge and garden by the river, halfway between Bukit Lawang centre and the orangutan feeding platform. A lovely and colourful room suitable for 1-4 people with a double bed (extra beds available), mosquito nets, a fan, bathroom with western toilet and shower, 2 balcony's with chairs and table, hammock and an amazing view of the jungle. 
Best Time to Visit : From June to October

Warning :
  • It has happened quite often that some guides feed the orangutans with normal, human food during a trek just to coax the wild animals for the tourist, and as a consequence orang-utans have become sick or even die. You should not get close to or call or feed ANY of the animals. even if your guide tells you it is ok tell him not to do it.  
  • Travelers with Visa ATM cards should bring cash with them to Bukit Lawang. While there is a Mastercard ATM machine 7 km from town, the nearest Visa ATM is 60km away in Binjai. If you run out of money, the 4 hour roundtrip motorbike ride will set you back 200,000-400,000 rupiah.
  • It is perfectly safe for female travellers here but do behave appropriately. Don't wear bikinis or skimpy clothing...this includes tight fitting and low cut tshirts. 
  • Solo female travellers should beware of unlicensed guides, and of trekking or other activities where they might be alone with a man. If going to the jungle, meet up with fellow travellers and find a guide. All licensed guides have photo permits. Ask to see them before booking a trek. Green Hill and Sam's Bungalows have good reputations for solo travellers. 
  • When travelling down the river rapids on the rubber tyres, do not go past the bridge. There are narrow drains and sharper rocks the closer you get to the village. 
  • Keep your villa doors and windows closed when you are not around, the long tailed macaques like to get inside and raid your belongings for food.  

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