Kerinci Seblat National Park, Sumatra : Sumatra's Natural Heritage

Straddling across four province - West Sumatra, Jambi, Bengkulu and South Sumatra the vast Kerinci Seblat National Park is the pride of Andalas. It is a prized natural heritage, the largest national park in Sumatra. This conservation area secures a larger section of Bukit Barisan, extending across 13.791 Km2. Mount Kerinci, the highest peak in Indonesia at the height of 3,805 meters above sea level looms over the park alongside the highest caldera lake in Southeast Asia known as Tujuh Mountain Lake. At an elevated height of 1, 995 meters above sea level, the lake is surrounded by primeval rainforest and seven hills making it the perfect setting for the natural habitat of various wildlife such as the hornbill, drongo and broad billed bird.


It is a paradise for bird lovers where the rhinoceros hornbill ( Buceros Rhinoceros ) and wreathed hornbill ( Aceros Undulatus-undulatus ) can be easily spotted, in addition to the helmeted hornbill ( Rhinoplax Vigil ) with its marvelous hysterical laughter like sounds.

Hot springs, river rapids, caves and waterfall are part of the natural splendor of the conservation park. Its wilderness houses the largest flower on earth, the Rafflesia Arnoldi and the Titan Arum, another gigantic flowering plant. Wildlife inhabiting Kerinci Seblat's different types of ecosystem include the Sumatran tiger, Sumatran rhinoceros, Sumatran elephant, clouded leopard, tapir and sun bear.

The area is shrounded in mystery with rare glimpses of the elusive Asiatic golden cat ( Catopuma temminckii ) and the alleged sightings of a mysterious primate species that walks in an upright positon, disappearing amid the darkness of the forest in a blink of the eye known to the locals as Orang Pendek.

Rainfall is heaviest between October-December and from February-April while May-August is mainly dry but with some occasional rains, there are no major variations in seasonal temperature. Photographers may wish to avoid the period July-August as these dry months are often hazy. Because much of the park is above 700m in altitude, evenings and nights tend to be cool while in the high mountains temperatures may occasionally drop as low as 5C at night and so trekkers should be prepared for cool evening.

Accessibility and Direction : 

• From Padang, the capital city of West Sumatra, travel towards the city of Penuh River in Kerinci District. The journey takes 7 - 8 hours or 278 kilometers from Padang. An alternative route starts from the village of Kersik Tuo located 211 kilometers from Padang or roughly 5-6 hours of travel.
• There is an airstrip in Kerinci with flights from Jambi city airport: Susi Air flys twice a week on Monday and Thursday mornings. Tickets are relatively cheap due to government subsidy. 
• You may want to call your hotel or homestay in advance to arrange for personal transport (you can hire a car, van, or bus) for your trip, however there are good 'Travel' minibus and Share Taxi services from Padang and Jambi and Bengkulu to district capitals which border the park. Padang to Kerinci (Sungaipenuh) or Bangko (Merangin district) is a six-seven hour bus drive, Jambi city to Bangko five hours, Bengkulu city to Curup three hours while it is four hours to the elephant sanctuary at Seblat from Bengkulu city.
• Arrival at Padang airport (Minangkabau) is 'ordeal by taxi driver' - better to take the airport DAMRI buses into town, overnight in Padang and then head for the park. Your hotel should be able to help with Travel taxis to Kerinci. It is also possible to take public buses or local angkot minibuses. Be prepared for an uncomfortable ride though as public buses are often crowded, may not have enough space for bulky luggage, and they make frequent stops however for getting around locally angkot minibuses are inexpensive and convenient.  

Sightseeing :

• Tea plantations at Mt Kerinci - you can tour after getting permission from the locals. 
• Hot springs at Mt Kunyit, Talang Kemuning, Kerinci, Semerup, Kerinci or in Renah Kemumu, Merangin district. Traditional dance ceremonies and maybe a Tiger calling ceremony by a Kerinci shaman 
• Lake Kerinci. The view of the Kerinci valley and Lake Kerinci from Bukit Kayangan (above Sungaipenuh, fantastic forest scenery at Bukit Tapan and Muara Imat village 
• The elephant sanctuary at Seblat, Bengkulu to the west of the national park (ask permission from KSDA Bengkulu first). 
• Remote, rarely visited traditional forest-edge villages in Jangkat and Sungai Tenang and Muara Siau areas of Merangin district. 
• Megaliths in the Kerinci valley and at remote and rarely visited Renah Kemumu village in Merangin district. 
• Lake Gunung Tujuh - South East Asia's highest crater lake and still surrounded by pristine forests and the marshlands of lake Bentau. The national park offers superb trekking and climbing opportunities for both novices and the more experienced as well as bird and wildlife watching whether just going for a walk for a day or a week long jungle expedition. Climb Mt Kerinci: the popular trek up to either Camp 2 or 3 usually takes 2 days and 1 night, including the descent, Avoid rainy season months (November-February) weekends and public holidays.Bring warm clothes and a rain cape.
• Climb up to Lake Gunung Tujuh - one day return or camp over night by the lake. Avoid weekends and public holidays. 
• Trek (2 days, one night) from Talang Kemuning village (2 hours from Sungaipenuh) to forests of Mt Kunyit (south of the Kerinci valley) to see sulphur pits and hot springs and pitcher plants or from Renah Kayu Embun (Sungaipenuh) climb to the peak of Mt Raya for fantastic views and rare flora such as the Kayu Embun tree and pitcher plants, Kerinci rabbits and yes, the chance of a possible Sumatran tiger encounter. 
• More adventurous forest treks - the forest trail west from Lempur in the south of Kerinci district to Sungai Ipuh village in Mukomuko district of Bengkulu - allow five days though the locals do the trip in 3 days (you will need special permission from park headquarters); Lempur to Rantau Kermas via the ancient enclave village of Renah Kemumu (4 days - megaliths and hot springs and stunning scenery) or stay in forest villages in Muara Siau, Merangin district like Durian Rambun or Lubuk Bira. 
• Tiger watching- unlike India it is difficult to see wild Sumatran tigers even though there may be as many as 200 tigers in and around Kerinci Seblat but national park officers will advise on areas where tigers are usually present and suggest experienced guides. And yes, people do see tigers. 
• The Muara Imat-Birun area on the Kerinci-Merangin district borders is one of the best places to hope to see wild tigers or at least tiger signs as well as Rafflesia and Amorphophallus, rare orchids and good birdwatching. Ask at the national park offices.

Eat, Drinks and Sleep :

• Food in the restaurants in the small towns around the national park is mainly "Padang"- rice and a variety of meat, fish and vegetable dishes liberally spiced with chilli. If you do not like spicy food, ask for 'tidak pedas'. In Kerinci district look for restaurants offering 'dendeng batokok' - a grilled, finely sliced, smoked steak.
• Homestay Pak Subandi, ☎ 0748 357009 .Can arrange for a guide to bring you up the volcano, or for specialist bird watching trips. The address is Jalan Raya Muara Labuh, Desa Kersik Tua,phone numbers 081274114273 travel minibuses from Padang will drop you off.
•  Hotel Mahkota. In Sungaipenuh, Kerinci offers higher end accomodation with a swimming pool and tennis courts.
• Homestay Family, ☎ +62 85 266 266 992 (Indonesian, English), 082183897788. The address is Lindung Jaya M-10 Kersik Tuo - Kayu Aro, Kerinci - Jambi . It is a bit away from the mainroad, so more quiet. Rp. 75,000-150,000 with breakfast

Warning :

• You should bring a photocopy of your passport, which is to be given to the authorities to process your national park entry permit. Visitors planning to climb Mt Kerinci can get a photocopy made at the village of Kersik Tuo at the foot of the mountain. Photocopies of your passport and the visa section are also useful if staying in a village as your homestay must report visitors to the village headman or local police post. 
• Buy tickets at the national park headquarters in Sungaipenuh, Kerinci, at Kersiktua, at Curup (near Bengkulu) or in Bangko if you are planning to visit Renah kemumu or the national park forests in Merangin district.
• Even experienced climbers should avoid a solo climb of Mt Kerinci as there have been rare cases of disappearances and deaths primarily due to sudden changes in weather and the risk of poisonous gases from the crater.
• Forest treks involving camping overnight should be conducted with a reliable local guide - safer and much more rewarding. You can ask your local accommodation to arrange for a guide for you or request advice from national park officers.